Ridge weather
Day 14 · 21 km · overcast, later clear
The forecast promised rain by noon and delivered fog instead — thick
enough that the ridge line disappeared twenty metres out. By the time
the trail dropped back below the cloud the valley was doing that thing
where every field looks freshly rinsed.
A longer break than planned
Day 9 · 6 km · rest day
Blister care, mostly. Also: the village bakery opens at six and sells
out of the good bread by eight, a fact worth remembering for anyone
passing through with a slow start.
River crossing, take two
Day 5 · 24 km · warm, dry
Last year's bridge is gone — washed out over the winter, by the look
of the bank. The ford further upstream still holds, ankle-deep and
cold enough to be a decent reason to stop for lunch on the far side.